What about an all-in-one board that's totally 100% all-in-one including the jacks? See my photos in the Trigger I/O thread here:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=730 They use stacked TRS jacks which save a ton of physical space. You can easily fit the board with a row of stacked jacks into a 1U rack chassis thanks to the reduced height of the stacked jacks.
You could still provide IDE headers for those users that want to use non-TRS jacks so they still have a way to make the connection to the board. What I mean is have the physical jack connectors on the board AND IDE headers like you currently have. Best of both worlds.
You'd just need to expand your all-in-one board to be able to fit a row of 15 physical jacks (14 dual-input plus the HH pedal, assuming I'm doing the math correctly).
PROS:
* No need to DIY a jacks board, or spend hours soldering spliced IDE wires to jacks, which could increase the appeal of the kit/project to more people since it's less DIY work
* A lot less components and wires inside the chassis since everything is mounted directly to the all-in-one
* Less soldering to solder stacked jacks directly to the board VS soldering jacks to DIY jacks board, IDE headers, jumpers, etc.
* Since you're putting TRS jacks on the board you can put all the other rear-panel switches/etc. on the board, too like pedal jumper switches, MIDI in/out (assuming board mounted MIDI is readily available), external power, the works, make it all potentially directly board mountable
CONS:
* You're forced to buy stacked jacks (or maybe it's possible to construct the board so you simply use regular TRS if you only want 32 inputs, stacked if you want the full 56)
* Makes the board bigger which might reduce the chassis selection, though the board is so super small right now I'm not sure that'd really be an issue
* Might make the board more expensive
* You'd definitely need to provide some type of PDF printable chassis cut-out guide for use (print, cut out along the dotted lines, tape it to the rear chassis as a guide) to be able to correctly drill for the rear panel of the chassis.
Just my thoughts.
